Toyota License Plate Screws Stuck (Troubleshooting Guide)

1. Corrosion and Rust Seizure

One of the most common reasons for stuck license plate screws is corrosion. Over time, moisture and road grime can settle on the screws, especially in older Toyota models like the 1990s–2000s Camry and Corolla.

This often leads to rust forming between the screw and the metal nut embedded in the trunk or bumper, effectively “welding” them together.

You might notice brown or whitish corrosion around the screw head or hear grinding or squeaking noises when you try to loosen it. In severe cases, the screw won’t budge, no matter how much force you apply, and rust dust or flakes may fall off as you turn.

Start with a good penetrating oil like WD-40 Specialist or PB Blaster to tackle this. Spray it on the screw and let it soak for at least 10–15 minutes.

If that doesn’t work, use a screwdriver with a firm grip and the correct size to avoid stripping the head. For extra leverage, gently tap the handle with a hammer to help break the rust bond.

In extreme cases, you may need to carefully drill out the screw or use locking pliers to grip and twist the remaining stud after removing the head.

2. Stripped or Damaged Plastic Mounting Inserts

Toyota models from the mid-2000s onward, like the RAV4 and Highlander, often use plastic inserts in the trunk or bumper to hold license plate screws.

While these inserts are convenient, they can become problematic over time, especially if the screws are overtightened. This can cause the plastic to strip, making the insert spin freely and preventing the screw from coming out.

You might notice the screw turning endlessly without loosening or feel a slight outward movement followed by slipping back into place. Sometimes, you’ll see plastic shavings around the hole, signaling that the insert’s threads are damaged.

To fix this, try applying upward pressure on the screw while turning it. A thin pry tool, like a flathead screwdriver or trim removal tool, can help by holding the screw steady as you rotate. If the insert is accessible from the backside of the bumper or trunk, you can grip it with pliers to prevent spinning.

Once the screw is out, it’s best to replace the plastic insert. New inserts are inexpensive and ensure the mounting point remains secure for future screws.

Sometimes, the issue with stuck license plate screws comes down to mismatched threads or using the wrong screw size.

Toyota vehicles often use metric screws, such as M6 x 1.0, while aftermarket accessories or replacement brackets might come with standard screws, like #14 or 1/4-inch. If a screw with the wrong thread pitch or diameter is forced into the hole, it can jam, making removal a real headache.

When this happens, you’ll usually notice the screw gets stuck partway in, requiring excessive effort to turn, or it might strip the threads as you try to tighten or loosen it. After removing the screw, check its threads—if they look flattened or damaged, cross-threading is likely the culprit.

To resolve this, use a thread chaser or re-tap the hole with the correct thread size to clean up any damage. Always confirm the screw’s size matches the mounting point before reinserting. Stick to Toyota’s OEM specifications for future ease to avoid thread mismatch issues.

4. Seized Retaining Clips on Front License Plate Brackets

In some Toyota models, particularly those with front license plate brackets, the screws are held in place by small retaining clips. These clips, often made of metal or plastic, are designed to grip the threads of the screw securely.

However, over time, they can corrode, deform, or lose their grip, making screw removal nearly impossible. This issue is common in vehicles like the Camry or Avalon, where road debris, water, and salt exposure can wreak havoc on the hardware.

If you try to remove a screw and notice the retaining clip spinning along with it or hear a grinding sound, the clip is likely the problem. In severe cases, the clip may break entirely, leaving the screw stuck or loosely attached.

To fix this, remove the license plate bracket if it’s detachable. This gives you access to the backside of the clips. If the clip is corroded, use penetrating oil to loosen it and gently pry it off.

You’ll need to replace clips that are too damaged to salvage with new ones. Ensure the replacement clips are compatible with your Toyota model to prevent future issues.

5. Inside Access or Rear Panel Obstruction

For older Toyota sedans, such as earlier generations of the Corolla or Camry, the license plate screws might be fastened to internal bolts or nuts located behind the trunk panel.

Over time, these internal components can rust or loosen, making it impossible to remove the screws without accessing the backside. In some cases, trunk liners or paneling can obstruct your ability to reach these bolts.

If you’re attempting to remove a screw and it feels like it’s rotating endlessly or grinding against something, the issue likely lies with the internal nut or bolt.

To tackle this, start by clearing the way. Remove the trunk liner or tailgate cover—usually secured by clips or screws—to expose the backside of the mounting area. Once you’ve gained access, inspect the bolt or nut for rust or damage.

If it’s rusted, apply penetrating oil and use pliers or a wrench to hold the bolt steady while loosening the screw from the outside.

In cases where the bolt or nut is completely seized or broken, you may need to cut or drill out the screw carefully and replace both the nut and the screw with new hardware.

This approach solves the immediate issue and ensures you won’t experience the same hassle when replacing the plate again.