Dodge Durango Push-Button Start Problems? Real Fixes, Hidden Faults & Costly Mistakes

Press the start button and nothing. You jab the brake, try again, and the dash flashes “Key Not Detected.” You’re stuck in a 2022 Durango, groceries warming up, kids getting loud in the back. One coin-cell battery just wrecked your afternoon.

This isn’t some freak glitch. Push-to-start failures show up in Durangos from 2011 to 2024. The primary cause changes with the model year, mileage, and trim, but it’s rarely just the fob.

That “dead button” moment? It usually means the start system isn’t getting the green light from one of its checkpoints: fuel pressure, brake signal, battery voltage, starter load, or the PCM. It’s not about one failed part. It’s a busted chain of electronic approvals.

What needs to click before your Durango cranks

Pressing the Start button on your Durango isn’t just flipping a switch. It kicks off a digital roll call. Seven systems check in, one after the other. Miss a single signal, and the whole thing stalls.

The key fob handshake comes first

The system looks for a working fob nearby. The WIN (Wireless Ignition Node) waits for that signal. If the battery’s weak, the fob’s outside the cabin, or there’s radio interference, the process dies right here.

The brake pedal has to report in

That pedal isn’t just for stopping. Its sensor tells the PCM you’re ready to start. No solid press? No start command. If the switch is faulty or misaligned, the car doesn’t even try to crank.

Main and auxiliary batteries need to hold steady

On models with Auto Start/Stop, you’ve got two batteries working together. If one drops voltage or if a jump-start blew the 150-amp fuse under the hood, things go dark. No crank, no module wake-up, no dash lights.

Starter, fuel pump, and PCM all need to sync

Only after the fob checks out, the brake is confirmed, and voltage is good, does the car send the signal to spin the starter. At the same time, the fuel pump primes, and the PCM kicks in with spark timing.

It’s like a pit crew at green flag, if just one member misses their cue, the car’s not going anywhere.

Silent? Clicking? Cranking? What those startup signs actually mean

Push the button and then what? That sound or lack of one says more than you think. But here’s where people get tripped up: just because it won’t crank doesn’t mean the starter’s dead. And “Key Not Detected” doesn’t always mean your fob is toast. Let’s break down what these symptoms really tell you.

Dead silent, just the odometer showing?

That usually means a dead main battery or a bad brake switch. If you hit Start and only the mileage lights up, no chimes, no cluster lights, it’s probably because the battery is drained or the car doesn’t see your foot on the brake. If the brake lights don’t come on, it won’t even try to start.

One loud click, then nothing?

That’s the starter solenoid trying but failing. Either the battery doesn’t have enough juice, or the starter itself is binding. Do a load test on the battery. If it checks out, tap the starter with a wrench while someone cranks. If it suddenly turns over, you’ve got a sticky solenoid.

Cranks for 6 seconds but won’t start or dies right after?

That’s classic fuel pressure drop. If the engine spins but doesn’t fire, or fires then stalls, the pump may be losing prime. 2021–2024 Durangos are known for weak check valves that bleed pressure when the car sits.

Try this: switch to RUN for five seconds before starting. If that helps, your fuel pump’s bleeding off.

“Key Not Detected” even though the fob’s in the cupholder?

Start with the simple fix: replace the CR2032 battery. No pairing or reprogramming needed. Still nothing? Try the emergency start method: Hold the fob against the button while pressing Start. If that works, the WIN module is at least awake.

Starts one day, dead the next?

You’re in the intermittent zone. These issues usually come from heat-soaked electronics, failing relays, or parasitic drains. A weak alternator or glitchy module can mess up after a drive, especially when it’s hot. One owner summed it up: “It only dies at 2 PM in Florida.”

Starts, then shuts off right away?

This could be fuel or PCM-related. Anti-theft glitches can also trigger early shutdowns. Watch for blinking red icons on the dash, especially the security/immobilizer light.

Fob locks the doors, but won’t start the car?

This one’s tricky. If the fob still locks the car, people assume it’s fine, but starting uses a different signal path. The issue could be the WIN module, the RF Hub, or even the PCM. Don’t trust the locks to confirm the fob is working for ignition.

Easy wins you can nail without leaving the driveway

Before you call a tow truck or start pricing out a $900 WIN module, hit these simple checks. A surprising number of no-starts come down to cheap, dumb stuff you can fix in your driveway.

Change the CR2032 in both fobs, even the one that still works

That “Key Not Detected” message might just mean the signal’s too weak. CR2032 coin cells cost a few bucks and take two minutes to swap. No reprogramming needed, just crack open the fob with a flathead or the emergency key.

If one’s dying, the other probably isn’t far behind. Replace both and rule it out.

Load-test both batteries, not just the big one

If your Durango has Start/Stop, it also has a smaller aux battery near the wheel well. That one runs accessories and restart functions. When it’s weak, you’ll see oddball issues, slow starts, jerky shifting, or no crank at all.

Clean both battery terminals. Look for corrosion. Then test under load. A resting 12.6 volts doesn’t mean much. If it drops below 9.6 volts while cranking, it’s done.

Prime the fuel pump before trying to start

Big one for 2021–2024 Durangos. Put the ignition in RUN (foot off the brake) and wait five seconds. Listen for a soft hum from the rear, that’s your pump priming.

If the engine fires right after this, your fuel system’s bleeding pressure while parked. Ask the dealer about TSB 14-004-25.

Press the brake and check the lights

If the brake lights don’t work, the car won’t start. The pedal switch sends two signals: one to your lights, one to the PCM. If it fails, the system never gets the green light to crank.

It’s a $35 part. Don’t throw $700 at a starter before checking it.

Try the emergency start method

Even a weak fob can work at close range. Hold the tip of the fob directly against the Start button while pressing the brake. If it starts, your modules are fine. You’re just dealing with a dying battery in the fob. It’s also proof the wiring isn’t the issue.

If it fires up after these five? You just dodged a tow and a shop bill.

Durango year traps: which models break where

Not all no-start issues come from the same place. Some are basic battery problems. Others? Baked-in design flaws tied to specific years. Knowing where your Durango fits helps you fix the real issue fast and skip the guesswork.

2011–2018: WIN module failures are common and ugly

Early push-button Durangos had a soft spot: the WIN module. If your key fob gets stuck in the slot or the engine stays running after you walk away, chances are the module’s toast.

The fix? Rebuilders offer plug-and-play replacements that don’t need dealer programming. That’s a $250 fix instead of a $900 headache.

2021–2024: Long cranks caused by a weak fuel pump module

Newer 3.6L and 5.7L Durangos have a different issue, long crank times and random stalling. It’s usually the check valve in the fuel pump letting pressure bleed back into the tank.

Dodge finally dropped TSB 14-004-25, telling techs to test pressure and swap the pump if it fails. Covered under warranty, don’t let a dealer bill you full labor.

2018–up: SGW blocks keep your scanner in the dark

Starting in 2018, Dodge added a Security Gateway (SGW) that blocks third-party scan tools from reading key modules. That means your local shop might say “no codes” even if something’s wrong.

You’ll either need a dealer using wiTECH or a bypass module to get full access. If a mechanic shrugs and says nothing showed up, ask what scanner they used.

Here’s your cheat sheet for model-year problem zones:

Model Years	Known Weak Link	Common Symptom	Average Repair Cost
2011–2018	WIN Module (WCM)	Key stuck, red light, no crank	$225–$950
2018–2020	Alternator/PCM Recall	Stalls, no charge, no restart	$0 (if under recall)
2021–2024	Fuel Pump Check Valve	Long crank, stall at idle	$700–$1,000 (if not covered)
2018–up	SGW Lockout	No codes, intermittent no-start	$0–$200 (for bypass)

If you’ve got the VIN and model year, you’re already halfway to a fix.

When the cheap tricks fail: the real fixes cost real money

If you’ve swapped the fob battery, tested both car batteries, and still can’t get your Durango to fire up, you’ve left driveway territory. Now you’re deep in module land. This isn’t the time for guesswork. You’ll need solid diagnostics, the right tools, and in some cases, a hefty parts bill.

WIN module dead? Rebuild it or pay the dealer premium

If the fob won’t engage the start system and even the “press nose to button” trick fails, chances are the WIN module is shot. You might also see other signs, like the engine staying on after you remove the fob or the fob physically jamming in the slot.

You’ve got two routes: pay the dealer about $950 for a new module and a reflash, or mail your old unit to a circuit board repair shop for $250. Most rebuilders offer fast turnaround, plug-and-play installs, and no programming required.

Starter fails the tap test? Time to replace it

If you hear one solid click, and the engine only starts after you smack the starter with a wrench, that’s a dead solenoid or worn-out brushes. That “tap to start” move is just buying you time.

Replace it before it strands you for good. Expect to pay $450–$700, depending on the engine and shop labor.

Battery drains overnight? It’s not always the alternator

If your Durango starts fine at night but is dead by morning, you’ve got a parasitic draw. A failing alternator can bleed current if a diode sticks, but it’s not the only suspect. Relays, especially the alternator field relay, can stay stuck and pull power all night.

To confirm, you’ll need a multimeter or clamp amp tester to watch the current draw as the car sleeps. Or let a shop run a current draw test. One Reddit user had an alternator that passed on the bench, but the relay feeding it was hot 24/7.

PCM messing up? Dodge has a recall for that

If your 2018 Durango cranks weird, stalls out, or just refuses to wake up, check for recall 18V524000. A faulty voltage chip in the PCM can mimic battery failure and kill ignition completely.

If your VIN matches, the fix is a dealer reflash, and it’s free. Don’t pay for a PCM or battery until you’ve ruled this out.

Recalls and bulletins that could save you $900 or more

If your Durango won’t start, don’t assume it’s on you or your wallet. Dodge has issued multiple recalls and TSBs for stalling, long cranks, and failing modules. But here’s the catch: unless you bring them up, most dealers won’t.

Know the bulletin. Know what it fixes. Ask by number. That’s how you avoid paying for something Chrysler already admitted is broken.

18V524000 – PCM voltage chip kills engine mid-drive

This recall hit 2018 Durangos with faulty voltage regulators inside the PCM. One glitch and the engine dies either at startup or while moving.

No-start despite a good battery? This is where to start. It’s a full recall. No arguing. Dealer pays, not you.

14-004-25 – Fuel pump leak causes long cranks

Aimed at 2021–2024 models with 3.6L or 5.7L engines, this TSB confirms what owners have said for years. A bad check valve in the fuel pump lets pressure bleed off while parked, causing long cranks or stalls at idle.

Dealers are told to pressure-test the system. If it fails, they swap the entire pump module. But it’s a TSB, not a recall, so you’ll have to mention it by name.

08-093-21 – Flash update for fob and anti-theft glitches

This is a software patch for 2020 Durangos with flaky starts, especially SRT trims. It tweaks the RF Hub and adjusts the anti-theft system.

If your fob stops working randomly or you see the red immobilizer light blinking forever, this could be your fix. You just need the dealer to flash the update.

Here’s your cheat sheet for the service desk:

Bulletin/Recall	Covers	Fixes This Symptom	What You Can Test
18V524000	2018 PCM	Stalls, no crank, random shutdowns	Battery is good, still no start
14-004-25	2021–2024 Fuel Pump	Long crank, stalls at red lights	Starts better if primed in RUN
08-093-21	2020 RFHM Flash	Fob issues, no-start, red light	Fob locks but won’t start engine

If your VIN matches and the symptoms line up, the fix should be free, especially under warranty or recall. But you have to know to ask. Don’t wait for the dealer to bring it up. They usually won’t.

What the fix cost, and what misdiagnosis really costs

A push-button no-start can cost you anywhere from a $4 battery to over $ 1,200 at the dealership. The real danger? Chasing the wrong part first. Plenty of Durango owners (and even some techs) skip the basics and jump straight to high-dollar repairs, burning cash for nothing.

$4 coin-cell vs. $125 flatbed ride

You’d be amazed how many tow trucks get called out for a weak fob battery. A fading CR2032 can block the start signal, even if it still locks the doors. If you didn’t try the emergency-start trick, pressing the fob directly to the button, you could be out $125 just to get hauled to the shop.

Starter motor mistake: $800 gone for nothing

If the battery or aux battery is low, the starter may click or lag. Some shops skip load-testing and jump to a new starter. It cranks fine for a week, then dies again. All because the real problem was upstream power. That’s $800 wasted, and you’re back at square one.

Dual-battery swap: $360–$450 if both are shot

Durangos with Start/Stop run two batteries. Miss the aux battery, and your new main battery won’t fix the issue. A proper swap means $200–$250 for the main, and $120–$180 for the aux. Shops often replace both just to avoid comebacks.

WIN module failure? Rebuild it for $250 instead of $950

If the WIN module’s dead and you’re out of warranty, don’t go straight to the dealer. Rebuilders like Circuit Board Medics or AutoTech Electronic offer mail-in repairs for half the price, with no dealer programming needed. Most are plug-and-play with a one-year warranty and same-day turnaround.

Fuel pump replacement? TSB 14-004-25 can save you $700+

Long crank on a 2021–2024? Don’t let a shop sell you a new pump without checking Dodge’s bulletin. If pressure drops match TSB 14-004-25, you may get a full pump replacement under warranty. That’s $700+ in parts and 2.5 hours of labor you won’t have to pay for, but only if you bring it up.

When to fix it yourself and when to phone the flatbed

Push-to-start failures aren’t always dealer-only problems. Some are dead simple. Others? They’ll eat your weekend, your bank account, or both. Here’s how to know when to grab a wrench and when to grab your phone.

Dead dash, no crank, no sound? Start with a jump and voltmeter

If you press Start and get nothing- no lights, no sounds-you’re likely dealing with low voltage. Try a jump box. If that works, test both the main and aux batteries under load. If it starts but dies again soon after, it’s time to check for a parasitic drain.

Long crank, but fires after priming? Call the dealer, it’s a known fuel issue

If the engine spins and only catches after you sit in RUN for five seconds, don’t mess around. That points to a bad check valve in the fuel pump, a common issue on 2021–2024 Durangos.

Call the dealer. Mention TSB 14-004-25. Don’t let them sell you a new starter or battery first.

Starts after pressing the fob to the button? Just replace the battery

If it only starts when you physically press the fob to the button, your WIN module is fine. The fob just isn’t broadcasting properly. Swap the CR2032 coin cell in both fobs. That’s a $5 fix that can save a $125 tow.

Starts sometimes, flashes red, or ignores the fob? That’s a WIN module warning

If you’ve got power and good batteries, but the Start button randomly fails or the red immobilizer light stays on, you’re likely dealing with a failing WIN. That’s common in 2011–2018 models.

If you’re tech-savvy, you can swap in a rebuilt unit. If not, send it to a repair shop. Either way, skip the dealer if you’re out of warranty.

That button’s just the tip; every start takes a chain of green lights

You press Start and expect it to go. But that button’s just the face of a system that only works if every part checks in battery, fob, brake switch, relays, sensors, fuel pressure, and the PCM.

Miss one step and the whole thing locks out.

Don’t treat it like a light switch. Treat it like a security handshake. That means logging the exact symptom, knowing what year-specific quirks to expect, and always starting with the small stuff.

Still cranking too long? Prime the pump. No lights? Jump it. No fob detection? Press the fob to the button and listen. These aren’t shortcuts, they’re real signals.

Keep a spare coin-cell in the console. Learn what your model year’s good at and what it isn’t. And when it messes up again? Start small. That’s how you keep your Durango moving without getting burned.

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Rami Hasan is the founder of CherishYourCar.com, where he combines his web publishing experience with a passion for the automotive world. He’s committed to creating clear, practical guides that help drivers take better care of their vehicles and get more out of every mile.