Honda Ridgeline Towing Problems: Real-World Weak Spots, Fixes & Red-Flag Years

You hitch up the camper, pack in the kids, and roll out with a 5,000-lb trailer, supposedly well within what the Ridgeline can handle. But thirty miles in, your arms are sore from gripping the wheel.

The rear’s sagging, crosswinds shove the truck around, and every passing semi makes it feel like you’re wrestling the road. That’s when the spec sheet stops mattering.

Sure, the Ridgeline is rated for 5,000 lbs of towing and 1,500 lbs of payload. It’s got all-wheel drive and a smooth ride when empty. But under all that, it’s still built like a crossover. Soft rear springs, no tow/haul mode, and a unibody frame that flexes when things get heavy.

This guide gets into why the numbers don’t tell the full story. We’ll look at which model years handle towing better, where the weak spots show up, and what upgrades can actually make a difference.

If you’ve already got one or you’re shopping for a used Ridgeline, you’ll want to know what it can really handle before you hook up the trailer.

Unibody bones, truck expectations

What the Ridgeline’s SUV-style frame means for towing

The Ridgeline doesn’t ride on a traditional truck frame. It’s built on a unibody platform, the same basic setup you’ll find under a Honda Pilot or Odyssey.

That means no separate steel frame to handle trailer stress. Instead, the load gets spread through the body itself: floorpan, suspension mounts, and pillars.

It’s great for ride comfort when the truck’s empty. But once you start towing, the limits show up fast. The soft rear springs compress under load, the body flexes more than you’d like, and long-term stress builds up in bushings, mounts, and struts.

Even with a modest tongue weight, say 400 to 500 pounds, you can see the rear end drop by 1.5 to 3 inches.

The Ridgeline’s towing rep doesn’t match the sticker rating

This setup is why some folks say the Ridgeline “isn’t a real truck.” It’s got a sideways V6, front-wheel-drive roots, and no body-on-frame muscle. But Honda never pretended it was built to pull 30-foot fifth-wheels. It’s meant for light-duty work, jet skis, utility trailers, and pop-up campers.

That’s why the max tow rating stops at 5,000 pounds, and the payload maxes out around 1,500 to 1,583 pounds. In real-world use, most owners hit the payload limit before they even reach max towing.

A 22-foot camper with 540 pounds of tongue weight plus a few passengers and weekend gear? You’re already pushing it.

The chassis can handle a decent load, but there’s not much margin. Treat it like a half-ton or heavier, and you’ll burn through suspension parts in a hurry.

Rated numbers in plain English

Towing, payload, GVWR, and GCVWR: What it all really means

On paper, the Ridgeline can tow 5,000 pounds (if it’s AWD and newer than 2020). But that number only holds if you’ve got almost nothing in the truck, just two 150-pound adults and no extra gear.

Once you load up the family, toss in some camping supplies, and account for the trailer’s tongue weight, you’re already pushing the limits.

Payload isn’t just cargo. It includes everything in the truck: people, bags, tools, and especially tongue weight. And that tongue weight? It usually eats up 10 to 15 percent of the trailer’s total weight. So, for a 4,000-pound trailer, you’ve already used 400 to 600 pounds of payload before adding a single cooler.

GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) is your truck’s curb weight plus the max payload it’s rated to carry. GCVWR (Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating) adds the loaded trailer into the mix.

Go over that number, and you’re not just pushing the engine; you’re overworking the suspension, brakes, and transmission too.

How different Ridgeline years stack up

Model Year	Drive Type	Max Tow (lb)	Max Payload (lb)	Engine	Torque (lb-ft)
2025–2021	AWD	5 000	1 509–1 583	3.5L V6	262
2020	2WD	3 500	N/A	3.5L V6	262
2019–2017	AWD	5 000	1 500	3.5L V6	262
2019–2017	2WD	3 500	N/A	3.5L V6	262

All models use the same 280-horsepower V6. But you only get the full 5,000-lb tow rating if it’s AWD and equipped with the right hitch, cooling, and 7-pin wiring setup.

Real-world math: When the numbers fall apart

Take a 4,200-pound camper with 540 pounds of tongue weight. Add a family of four and 300 pounds of gear in the bed. You’re sitting at about 1,240 pounds of payload. Technically in the clear, but just barely. Toss in bikes or another cooler, and now you’re overloaded.

That’s where most owners hit the wall, not because the truck can’t tow, but because the weight limits get eaten up fast. You run out of margin before you even hit the highway.

What really breaks when you start towing heavy

Shaky shifts and weird power drops

The 9-speed ZF transmission in 2020–2025 Ridgelines has its fans, but not when there’s weight behind it. Owners report jerky gear changes, hesitation, and throttle lag when towing. Some say the truck clunks hard between gears or just won’t accelerate when you need it to.

The big red flag? A “judder” that comes from the torque converter clutch. It’s tied to hot, worn-out transmission fluid, especially after towing in hills or summer heat.

Honda knows about it (see TSB 17-025), but updates and fluid swaps don’t always fix the issue. Some drivers still get rough shifts or sudden power loss under load.

Rod bearings that can’t take the stress

The 2017–2019 Ridgeline is under investigation for rod bearing failure. This isn’t a tick, it’s a full engine shutdown. Some hear a knock before it dies.

Others lose power without warning. Honda issued Recall 23V-751, but it only covers part of the problem. More than 170 complaints as of late 2024 still fall outside the recall.

Towing makes it worse. Constant load pushes oil temps up and thins out lubrication. If the bearings are weak, they won’t survive long.

Rear-end sag and trailer sway

Throw 500 pounds on the hitch and the Ridgeline’s rear drops almost 2 inches. Load up the bed, and you’re looking at 3 inches of squat. That shift messes with how the truck handles, affecting your steering, headlights, and control in wind.

Honda’s manual says not to use a weight distribution hitch, but plenty of owners ignore that advice. Airbags or helper springs like SumoSprings help get the ride height back and cut down on sway. Without them, handling gets sketchy in a hurry.

Missing trailer brake control, and weak wiring

The Ridgeline doesn’t come with a factory brake controller, even though Honda says trailers over 1,000 pounds need their own brakes. The truck’s pre-wired, but most owners don’t realize they have to install a controller themselves (like a Tekonsha Prodigy).

Wiring isn’t great either. The factory harness uses skinny ground wires that can mess with brake lights or fail to charge your trailer battery. A lot of setups need 10–12-gauge rewires to work right.

And the stock brakes? Fine on their own. But on steep grades with a trailer, they fade fast unless the trailer brakes are doing their job.

Backup camera failures from a smart-but-flawed tailgate

The Ridgeline’s two-way tailgate is slick, but it’s hard on the backup camera wiring. 2017–2019 trucks have already seen recalls, but problems keep popping up even after fixes. Cold weather, road salt, and frequent tailgate swings wear out the harness. If the camera cuts out while hitching or backing, you’re flying blind.

MPG goes down hard with a trailer

Without a load, you might see 24 or 25 MPG. But hook up a camper or boat? Some owners report under 9 MPG. Throw in short range, often less than 200 miles per tank, and you’re pulling into gas stations more than campsites. Fuel costs add up quick when you’re hauling.

Generation vs. generation: which Ridgelines tow with less drama?

Gen-1 VTM-4 vs. Gen-2 AWD: What Honda swapped

The first-gen Ridgeline (2006–2014) came with VTM-4, Honda’s old-school 4WD system that could actually lock the rear differential. At low speeds, you could force equal power to both rear wheels.

That made it more stable backing a trailer down a wet ramp or pulling through loose gravel. It wasn’t fancy, but it worked.

The second-gen Ridgeline (2017–present) ditched VTM-4 for an AWD system that uses clutches to shift torque automatically. It reacts quicker overall, but you can’t lock anything manually.

So when things get slick, you’re relying on software to sort out traction. You get a smoother ride on pavement, but a little less control when conditions go sideways.

Spare tires, drivetrains, and years to watch

Gen-1 kept the spare tucked inside the lockable in-bed trunk. Not ideal, but at least it was clean and protected. Gen-2 moved it under the truck, which seems fine until you hitch a trailer or load the bed. Then it’s buried and nearly impossible to reach. Not great when you’re stuck on the shoulder with a flat.

Transmissions changed, too. Gen-1 ran a basic 5-speed auto, slow but predictable. Gen-2 started with a 6-speed, then moved to the 9-speed ZF in 2020.

That newer transmission came with jerky shifts and a flood of complaints tied to bad software. And don’t forget the rod-bearing issues in 2017–2019 engines, those years have a track record you don’t want to tow with.

Here’s how the key towing traits compare:

Feature	Gen 1 (2006–2014)	Gen 2 (2017–Present)
Tow Rating (AWD)	5 000 lb	5 000 lb
Locking Rear Diff	Yes (VTM-4)	No (AWD clutch-based)
Spare Tire Access	In-bed trunk	Under-bed, hard to reach
Transmission	5-speed auto	6-speed (2017–19), 9-speed (2020+)
Known Issues	2006 cylinder failures	2017–19 engine, 2020+ trans problems
Reliability Trend	More solid after 2008	Smoother after 2021 update

If towing’s high on your list, late Gen-1 models or anything after 2021 are the safer call. The 2017–2020 years? They’ve got more moving parts and more to go wrong when loaded down.

Gear that helps the Ridgeline handle real loads

Weight-distribution hitches with sway control

Honda says you don’t need a weight-distribution hitch for the Ridgeline. Some manuals even warn against it. But if you’re towing a 20-foot camper or anything close to max weight, that advice doesn’t hold up.

A properly set up WDH takes stress off the rear suspension, levels out squat, and, if it has sway control, keeps your trailer from whipping around when a semi blows past.

Honda likely plays it safe here because a badly tuned hitch can make things worse. But when done right, it’s one of the best ways to make towing feel stable, especially on a unibody setup like this.

Helper springs, airbags, and bump stops that firm things up

Load 500-plus pounds on the hitch, and the rear drops. That squat shifts weight off the front tires, throws off alignment, and makes the truck wander, especially on uneven roads.

That’s where helper gear comes in. SumoSprings and Air Lift 1000 airbag kits are two go-to fixes. They install right into or around the coil springs, firm up the ride under load, and settle the truck without wrecking comfort.

They also keep the rear from bouncing through dips, something that often kicks off trailer sway.

Skip Eco mode, run Sport when towing

The Ridgeline doesn’t have a tow/haul mode, which is a miss. Eco mode might save gas when the bed’s empty, but with a trailer, it makes the truck hunt for gears, drag RPMs too low, and heat up the trans.

Sport mode is a better call. It holds gears longer, keeps the engine in the powerband, and responds faster when you hit hills. Most owners who tow regularly say it’s the only way to keep things smooth without a dedicated tow setting.

Brake controllers and wiring that won’t fail mid-trip

Honda pre-wired the Ridgeline for a trailer brake controller, but they didn’t include one. If you’re pulling anything over 1,000 pounds, you’ll need to add your own. Most folks go with the Tekonsha Prodigy P3, easy to install, works reliably, and won’t take up much space in the cabin.

The wiring at the rear is another weak link. Some trucks ship with 14-gauge ground wires at the 7-pin connector, which can lead to flickering lights or battery charging problems. Replacing it with 10- or 12-gauge helps keep brake signals strong and avoids weird electrical hiccups on the road.

What the Ridgeline still gets right

Smooth ride and daily comfort when it’s not towing

This is where the Ridgeline actually beats most trucks. It drives more like a crossover than a workhorse. The unibody frame and independent rear suspension keep the ride smooth, the steering tight, and the cabin quiet. No leaf springs, no bed bounce, no rattling over speed bumps.

That’s why a lot of people buy it; they’re not towing every day. It’s easy to live with. Parking’s painless, and it doesn’t feel like overkill when you’re just running errands.

Smart tech that helps when you do tow

There’s no tow/haul button, but Honda didn’t leave you with nothing. Trailer Stability Assist steps in when sway kicks up. It taps the brakes automatically to settle things down, no input needed.

You also get Honda Sensing®: adaptive cruise, lane keep assist, and emergency braking. Add blind spot alerts and rear cross traffic warnings in newer models, and towing gets way less stressful, especially if you’re new to it or hauling through tight spaces with limited visibility.

It handles smaller loads with zero drama

The Ridgeline doesn’t love big trailers. But under 4,000 pounds, it’s right at home. It’ll tow boats under 20 feet, ATVs, pop-ups, snowmobiles, no sweat. The 3.5L V6 has enough pull, the suspension stays settled, and the brakes hold up.

Keep your load smart and balanced, and the Ridgeline feels solid. Start creeping toward 5,000 pounds with passengers and cargo piled in, and that’s when the weak spots show.

Maintenance checklist before you hitch up

Change trans fluid every 30,000 miles, don’t wait for the light

If you’ve got the 9-speed Ridgeline, swap the transmission fluid every 30,000 miles. Towing heats it up fast, especially in hot weather, and old fluid is a known trigger for the torque converter judder seen in 2020–2025 trucks.

Also, take a look at the transmission cooler fins standard on AWD models from 2021 forward. If they’re clogged with bugs or bent from road debris, airflow tanks and temps spike. A garden hose or fin comb can save you from a transmission rebuild.

Run an oil analysis if you’ve got a 2017–2019

These years are under the microscope for rod bearing failure. If you tow often or hear light knocking at idle, send a sample to Blackstone Labs or a similar service. They’ll check for copper and lead in the oil, early signs of bearing wear.

Honda’s recall (23V-751) doesn’t cover every engine. And waiting for it to seize means replacing more than bearings. Oil analysis gives you a peek inside without cracking anything open.

Inspect the suspension every 50,000 miles or sooner if you tow

Towing beats up the suspension faster than daily driving. Check the shocks, struts, and bushings by 50,000 miles. Sooner if the rear’s bouncing too much, you hear clunks over bumps, or tire wear gets uneven.

One Ridgeline owner had a driveshaft support bushing give out mid-trip. Just because a part isn’t that old doesn’t mean it’s still good. Ball joints, sway bar links, and tie rods also take a beating with tongue weight and trailer sway.

You can check them for play with a pry bar or listen for metal-on-metal when turning at low speed.

Keep an eye on the backup camera wiring

If you’ve got a 2017–2019, ask your shop to check the camera harness every time you’re in for service. That dual-hinged tailgate flexes the wiring, and failures are still showing up, even after the 2022 recall fix.

Lightly tug the harness near the tailgate. If it feels stiff, cracked, or cuts out when the gate swings, it’s already on the way out. And if the camera dies while hitching up, you’re backing blind.

Final thoughts

The Ridgeline can tow, but only if you stay within its limits. Keep your loads smart, watch your payload, and don’t chase the full 5,000-pound rating unless everything’s set up right.

This isn’t a heavy hauler built for long hauls and steep grades. But for boats, bikes, and light campers, it handles the job with less drama than most body-on-frame trucks.

If you’ve got a 2017–2019 or 2020–2025 model, pay close attention. The engine bearings and 9-speed transmission aren’t bulletproof. Stay ahead on fluid changes, check your wiring, and beef up the rear suspension if you tow often. And if your backup camera starts cutting out, check the harness before it strands you in reverse.

Think of it as an SUV that can pull, not a truck that can take abuse. Keep it in that lane, and it’ll stay reliable longer and ride better doing it.

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Rami Hasan is the founder of CherishYourCar.com, where he combines his web publishing experience with a passion for the automotive world. He’s committed to creating clear, practical guides that help drivers take better care of their vehicles and get more out of every mile.