FRAM PH6607 Oil Filter Fits What Vehicle: Comprehensive Fitment Guide

Spin-on oil filters might not get much spotlight, but they’re doing the heavy lifting every time you fire up your engine. Without that thin layer of clean oil they help maintain, parts would grind themselves to death in no time. And tucked into this world of unsung protectors, the PH6607 stands out as one of the most versatile soldiers out there.

Its footprint—M20 × 1.5 thread, short can—became an industry staple because it hits a sweet spot: small enough to fit tight engine bays, tough enough to survive cold morning starts, and common enough that you can find one practically anywhere. It’s the size that just…worked. And carmakers ran with it.

If you’re wondering whether the PH6607 fits your car, your equipment, or even your backup generator, you’re in the right place. We’ll break down the fitment, specs, compatibility quirks, and even real-world feedback from owners and mechanics who’ve put it through its paces. There’s more to it than just screwing on a new filter—so let’s get it right the first time.

1. The Nuts and Bolts of the PH6607: Dimensions, Build, and Service Life

Core Size and Thread Details: Built to Squeeze into Tight Spaces

The PH6607 isn’t a big, bulky oil filter—and that’s by design. Here’s what you’re working with:

• Can Height: About 2.625 inches

• Outside Diameter (OD): Roughly 2.690 inches

• Thread Size: M20 × 1.5

It’s a short, stout filter, which makes it a great match for modern engine bays where exhaust manifolds, cooler stacks, and steering gear leave barely any room to breathe.

Nissan, Honda, Subaru, and Mazda jumped on this size because it allowed them to tuck filters neatly into sideways-mounted engines without risking clearance issues.

The gasket specs are just as important when you’re trying to avoid leaks:

• Gasket Inside Diameter: 2.266 inches

• Gasket Outside Diameter: 2.531 inches

• Gasket Thickness: 0.203 inches

Small shifts in these numbers might seem harmless, but in the real world, they’re the difference between a filter that seals perfectly and one that weeps oil down your block.

What’s Inside Counts: Media, Valve, and Bypass Setup

Pop open a PH6607 and you’ll find a practical construction, not fancy:

• Filter Media: A blended mix of cellulose and synthetic fibers, rated to trap 95% of particles 20 microns or larger. That’s fine enough to catch engine-killing grit but breathable enough to keep oil flowing even at 6,000 RPM.

• Anti-Drain-Back Valve (ADB): Made of silicone instead of cheaper nitrile rubber. That matters if you live where winter mornings freeze your driveway—the silicone stays flexible, preventing dry starts when your engine needs oil the most.

• Bypass Relief Valve: Set to pop open at 13 psi. That might not sound exciting, but here’s the deal: on cold starts, thick oil struggles to squeeze through a clogged filter. If pressure builds too high without a bypass, you could blow a gasket or starve your bearings. That 13 psi spring is your pressure relief lifeline.

How Long Does It Last: Conventional vs. Synthetic Oil Changes

Here’s the honest truth: the PH6607 is built for normal oil change intervals, not extended marathon runs. Think:

• Conventional Oil: 3,000 to 5,000 miles

• Synthetic Oil: Up to 7,500 miles, if you’re careful

Push much past that, and you’re risking it. Even with decent synthetic blends, the cellulose-heavy media will clog before your oil physically breaks down. If you want longer intervals, you’ll need to look toward premium filters like Fram’s XG6607 (synthetic media) or Mobil 1’s M1-108A.

2. Where It Fits: Real-World Compatibility for the PH6607

How We Mapped It: Factory Data and Bulletins

You don’t have to guess whether the PH6607 will bolt onto your engine—we’ve got hard data. Using FRAM’s April 2025 bulletin, factory service manuals, and original equipment (OE) catalogs, the fitment list is solid, not stitched together from random forum guesses.

In short: if it’s on the list, it’s been properly vetted.

Passenger Vehicles That Rely on It

The PH6607 has made a name for itself across a wide range of automakers, especially in the 1990s through early 2020s. Here’s where it really shines:

• Nissan and INFINITI:

Engines like the QR25DE, VQ35HR, and even the newer VR30DDTT run great with it. Whether you’re wrenching on a G35, a 370Z, a Pathfinder, or a 2024 QX60, this filter often fits the bill.

• Mazda:

The beloved SKYACTIV-G engines (found in the Mazda 3, CX-5, and MX-5 Miata) match perfectly. Even older rotary RX-7s and the high-revving Mazdaspeed models from the early 2000s used PH6607-size footprints.

• Honda and Acura:

Surprisingly, Honda didn’t go wild here. It’s mostly the S2000’s F20C/F22C engines, the Insight, and a handful of Civics from the early 2000s that match up.

• Subaru:

EJ25s, EZ30s, and WRX STI EJ257 engines, before they switched to cartridge filters, depended on this compact spin-on. Models like the 2006–2010 Forester and the 2005–2012 Legacy are classic examples.

• Toyota and Scion:

If you’re rolling a Mazda-sourced Toyota Yaris iA (2016–2020) or certain Scion badges, you’ll find the PH6607 behind the splash guard.

• Kia and Hyundai:

Early 1.5L and 1.8L platforms (like the Rio and Spectra) spec’d this filter in the late ’90s and early 2000s.

• Ford and GM Oddballs:

Believe it or not, Ford Escort, Aspire, and rebadged GM NV200 (City Express) vans also spec the PH6607 size. It’s a true multi-brand workhorse.

Quick-Glance Table: Make, Models, and Typical Years

Make	Common Models	Typical Year Range
Nissan/INFINITI	Altima, Frontier, 350Z, QX60	2002–2024
Mazda	3, 6, MX-5 Miata, CX-5, CX-30	2012–2024
Honda/Acura	S2000, Insight, Civic	2000–2009
Subaru	Forester, Legacy, Outback, WRX STI	2004–2012, 2017–2021
Toyota/Scion	Yaris iA	2016–2020
Kia/Hyundai	Rio, Sephia, Spectra	1994–2005
Ford/GM	Escort, City Express	1991–2018

A Few Model-Year Caveats to Watch Out For

• Nissan’s VC-Turbo Engines:

Starting around 2019, Nissan’s turbocharged variable compression (VC-Turbo) engines swapped to a smaller M18 thread size. The PH6607 won’t fit these newer Altimas and Rogues.

• Mazda SKYACTIV-X Engines:

Similarly, Mazda’s next-gen SKYACTIV-X motors (post-2019) went to a finer-thread M18 filter mount. Again, no-go for the PH6607.

• Subaru’s FB-Series Engines:

Think late Outbacks, Foresters, and Imprezas post-2011. Subaru ditched spin-on filters for top-mounted cartridge systems. You’ll need a different setup entirely.

Always double-check by VIN or consult your owner’s manual if you’re dealing with a newer or turbocharged model. Those little changes can bite you.

3. Beyond Cars: Industrial and Equipment Use for the PH6607

Small Engines, Big Demands: Where Else It Shows Up

The PH6607 didn’t just find a home under the hoods of cars and crossovers. Its size, thread specs, and flow characteristics made it a favorite in industrial settings, too, especially where compact engines need reliable oil filtration under heavy, constant loads.

You’ll spot it in machines where reliability isn’t optional:

• Kubota Engines:

Powering Carrier-Transicold refrigeration units and Bobcat mini-excavators, the Z482 and D722 diesel engines bolt up perfectly with the PH6607. These engines churn away at a steady 3,000 RPM all day, making a good filter critical.

• Honda GXV530:

Turf equipment like Bush Hog HS1642 and ES1644 mowers, both running 16-horsepower Honda V-Twins, often spec the PH6607. These engines don’t get the luxury of frequent oil changes, so a strong anti-drain-back valve matters.

• Yanmar 2TNV and 3TNV Engines:

Found in Black Rock generators and construction machinery, these small diesels are another spot where the PH6607 quietly earns its keep.

• Comfort Master Units:

Diesel-powered comfort systems in trucks and RVs sometimes use Isuzu-based engines that match this filter size, although documentation can be spotty depending on the year and model.

What Constant-Load Use Means for Service Intervals

In automotive use, you might stretch an oil change out 5,000 miles or more. Not so here. When engines run at steady RPMs for hours, like a generator, lawn tractor, or refrigeration unit, you’re not measuring oil life in miles anymore. It’s about hours:

• Light-duty intervals: About 250 hours between filter changes.

• Heavy-duty or dirty environments: Stick closer to 100–150 hours to stay safe.

Ignoring those intervals invites problems like collapsed filter media or bypass valve fatigue, especially when the equipment is working in dusty, high-heat conditions.

4. Other Filters That Match: Cross-Reference Choices for the PH6607

Aftermarket Twins: Plenty of Reliable Alternatives

If you can’t find a FRAM PH6607 on the shelf, don’t panic. Plenty of brands make direct swaps that match the same thread, gasket specs, bypass setting, and flow characteristics.

Here’s a rundown of some solid choices:

• Purolator:

Models like L14612, L14622, and PL14615 mirror the PH6607 almost exactly. Purolator’s PureONE line (PL) even bumps up the filtration rating if you’re looking for better efficiency.

• Wix:

Wix’s 51365 is a favorite among serious DIYers. If you want premium media, the 51365XP steps up to synthetic blend, giving better clog resistance for long synthetic oil intervals.

• Mobil 1:

The M1-108A is built for drivers running full synthetic oils. Mobil 1 filters typically outlast regular spin-ons by a good margin without adding much pressure drop.

• STP:

Budget-friendly but surprisingly decent, the S6607 and S6607XL models give you both a standard and extended life option depending on your oil change habits.

• K&N:

High-flow fans lean toward HP-1008 or PS-1008. These are engineered for high RPM abuse, like what you’d see on track days with cars like the Nissan 370Z or Mazda MX-5.

• ACDelco:

If you’re driving a GM-sourced platform like the City Express van, the PF1237 and PF1127 filters are dead matches to the PH6607 blueprint.

Each of these options keeps the same M20 × 1.5 threading, gasket footprint, and approximate bypass pressure, so you won’t run into weird fitment or oil pressure issues when swapping brands.

Picking the Right One Based on How You Drive

Not every filter is built the same, even if it bolts on. Here’s how to pick smarter:

• Budget daily driver: Standard FRAM Extra Guard (PH6607) or Purolator L14612

• Synthetic oil and longer OCIs: Mobil 1 M1-108A or Wix 51365XP

• High-RPM, spirited driving: K&N HP-1008 or a Wix Racing equivalent

• Older vehicles with mild oil seepage: Stick to filters with silicone ADBVs, like Wix and Mobil 1, for better cold start protection

What you bolt on should match what’s going into the crankcase and how hard you’re pushing the engine. Cheap filters and long oil change intervals don’t mix well—at least, not if you want the engine to last.

5. How It Holds Up in the Real World: Performance and Field Feedback

Lab Numbers vs. What Actually Happens

On paper, the PH6607 looks solid: 95% efficiency at capturing 20-micron particles, a well-behaved 13 psi bypass valve, and a tough silicone anti-drain-back valve. In a controlled lab, it does exactly what it says.

But real-world testing—especially used-oil analysis from frequent DIYers—shows a bit more texture:

• Efficiency stays consistent up to about 6,000 miles on synthetic oil. After that, dirt-trapping ability tapers off slightly.

• Pressure drop across the filter stays low even when nearing the end of a normal service cycle, which means your oil pump isn’t working overtime just to push oil through.

• Durability checks out even after several thousand miles in high-RPM engines like the Nissan VQ35HR and Mazda MZR series. No media collapse or early ADBV failures were commonly reported.

For regular drivers sticking to 5,000–7,500 mile oil changes, the PH6607 holds its ground well.

Short Can vs. Long Can: Why Size Isn’t Always King

You’ll hear some folks swear by the PH7317 — the “long-can” cousin of the PH6607. And sure, the PH7317 gives you a little more dirt-holding capacity and a hair more surface area for filtration.

The PH6607’s shorter design fits tighter engine bays better, clears cooler stacks more safely, and warms up faster in cold climates. For a daily driver that’s not seeing track days or massive towing loads, the PH6607 usually makes more sense.

Trying to force a long-can filter into a cramped bay often leads to bent oil cooler lines or, worse, the filter rubbing against hot exhaust headers.

Where Failures Creep In

Every oil filter has weak spots if you push things too far. Based on real-world reports from owner forums (Mazda3 forums, Subaru WRX forums, Nissan Z community), here’s what can go wrong:

• Over-torqueing the filter can warp the base plate or crush the anti-drain-back valve, leading to slow startups or small leaks.

• Double-gasket issues happen when an old gasket sticks to the engine block and you screw a new filter right on top. The PH6607’s gasket design seals well, but not against another gasket.

• Long OCI abuse (running past 10,000 miles) can clog the media enough that the bypass valve has to do extra work, raising oil contamination risk.

None of these are unique flaws to the PH6607 — they’re just common across all short-can filters in real-world use if installation and oil change intervals aren’t respected.

6. Getting It Right: Installation and Service Tips for the PH6607

Tighten It Right: Skip the Gorilla Grip

The PH6607 may be small, but it doesn’t need to be tightened like a lug nut. The right approach is simple: hand-tighten until the gasket contacts the base, then add ¾ of a turn. If you want to be extra precise, torque it to 12–15 ft-lb using an oil filter wrench.

Over-tightening can crush the filter base, warp the gasket, and even damage the anti-drain-back valve inside. Worst case? You’ll be stuck fighting with a filter that won’t budge during your next oil change.

Gasket Prep: A Simple Step That Saves Headaches

Before spinning on the new filter, always lightly oil the gasket with clean motor oil. This simple step helps the gasket slide into place smoothly without binding or twisting, and makes it easier to remove the filter later on.

Skip it, and you risk gasket tears, leaks, or ending up with a filter that’s practically welded to the block after a few thousand heat cycles.

Also, double-check that the old gasket came off with the old filter. If it’s still stuck to the engine block, you’re one bad startup away from a pressurized oil fountain under the hood.

Choosing Can Size in Tight Bays: Don’t Push Your Luck

It might be tempting to grab a longer PH7317 to get more filter surface, but many transverse engine bays—especially in Mazdas, Subarus, and newer Nissans—leave almost no extra room around the oil filter mount.

Forcing a long-can filter into a space designed for the PH6607 can lead to problems like contact with hot exhaust pipes (which can melt the filter shell), dents from rubbing against frame rails or subframes, and a higher risk of installation errors because of the awkward angle.

When space is tight, it’s smarter to stick with the PH6607’s short-can body. The designers kept it compact for a reason.

7. Why the PH6607 Works (And When It Doesn’t)

Where the PH6607 Shines

There’s a reason the PH6607 became an oil change staple for so many DIYers and shop techs. First off, you’re almost guaranteed to find one at any parts store in the country—whether it’s a major chain, a rural gas station, or tucked behind the counter of a small-town mechanic.

It’s not just about availability, though. The short-can design solves real-world packaging headaches. On cars like the Mazda 3, Subaru Legacy, and Nissan Altima, exhaust manifolds, oil cooler lines, and transmission housings crowd the oil filter location.

A compact filter like the PH6607 clears these tight spots without needing weird angles or busted knuckles during removal.

The industry-wide support across brands like Honda, Subaru, Mazda, Nissan, and even older Ford Escorts proves how flexible this little filter is when it comes to threading onto different engine architectures without needing adapter plates or extensions.

Where It Comes Up Short

If you’re the type to push oil changes out past 7,500 miles, or you like squeezing every penny out of a synthetic oil investment, the PH6607 can start feeling a little limited.

It’s not built for marathon intervals. Its cellulose-heavy media can clog faster compared to full synthetic filters like Mobil 1’s M1-108A or Fram’s Ultra Synthetic XG6607.

Another limitation creeps in with newer engine families. Starting around 2019, brands like Nissan and Mazda moved to finer M18 threads for turbocharged and high-compression motors.

If you blindly assume “PH6607 fits everything,” you’ll end up with a filter that spins but doesn’t seal right. It’s not the filter’s fault—the standards shifted underneath it.

Finally, in turbo applications that run hotter and build higher oil pressures, longer-body filters with beefier bypass springs sometimes perform better.

Engines like the WRX STI’s EJ257 can technically run a PH6607, but many owners step up to slightly larger alternatives to get better headroom under boost.

Smart Choices: When to Stick, When to Switch

If you’re running a naturally aspirated engine, sticking with stock oil change intervals, and aren’t dealing with ridiculous under-hood temps, the PH6607 is a smart, simple choice. It’s easy to source, cheap enough not to sweat, and fits the bay without drama.

If you’re tuning for big power, running ultra-long OCIs, or wrenching on a newer turbocharged platform, it’s smarter to step up to an extended-life or specific-thread filter designed for the newer standards.

8. Looking Ahead: Where the PH6607 Fits Into the Future

The PH6607 still makes sense for a huge range of cars today, but it’s not going to stay the go-to forever. Carmakers are shifting toward cartridge-style filters starting with 2026 models, pushing out the old spin-on design to meet stricter waste and serviceability standards.

Engines like Mazda’s SKYACTIV-X and Nissan’s VC-Turbo are already there, meaning newer vehicles will need completely different setups. If you’re working on anything past 2025, double-check—odds are you won’t be spinning on a PH6607 much longer.

Materials are changing too. Expect more bio-fiber synthetic blends aimed at stretching oil change intervals beyond 10,000 miles without choking flow. Fram’s XG6607 is already leading that push, using synthetic media to handle longer runs better than the cellulose-heavy PH6607.

Fram, Purolator, and others are also updating part numbers. Over time, more filters will carry “Ultra” or “Extended” tags, pointing drivers toward longer service intervals with better filtration.

If you’re sticking with early 2000s to mid-2020s cars, the PH6607 is still right at home. But if you’re planning for newer models—or aiming to push oil changes way longer—it’ll pay to start thinking beyond it.

Final Thoughts

The PH6607 has earned its place as one of the most reliable and versatile spin-on filters out there. Whether you’re servicing a Mazda 3, a Nissan Altima, or a Subaru Forester, it covers a huge chunk of vehicles without fuss. Its compact size fits tight engine bays, and its availability across brands makes it a safe bet for quick, no-hassle maintenance.

That said, it’s built for regular oil change intervals and older thread patterns. If you’re working with newer turbocharged engines or stretching synthetic oil runs, stepping up to a newer synthetic-media filter—or checking for cartridge-style setups—is the smarter move.

For the vehicles it was designed for, though, the PH6607 still gets the job done right.