PA66 GF30 Radiator Fits What Vehicle? Full Fitment Guide & OEM Tips

You pop the hood and spot a code stamped on your radiator’s end tank—PA66 GF30. It’s not a part number, and it doesn’t match anything in your owner’s manual. So what does it mean?

Simple: it’s the plastic formula. That code tells you the radiator tank is made from polyamide 66 (nylon) reinforced with 30% glass fiber. It’s one of the most common materials used in modern radiators because it’s strong, heat-resistant, and can take years of abuse in the engine bay.

But here’s the problem—just knowing a radiator is made of PA66 GF30 doesn’t mean it will fit your car.

Plenty of parts share that material spec but have completely different sizes, hose positions, mounting tabs, and cooler connections. That’s where most people get burned. A quick search online might show 100 “PA66 GF30 radiators,” but only a handful are actually compatible with your make, model, and engine.

This guide cuts through the confusion. We’ll walk through what PA66 GF30 actually is, why it’s used, how to match it correctly to your vehicle, and how to avoid buying something that “looks right” but won’t bolt up. You’ll also get a detailed vehicle fitment table based on real-world listings and manufacturer data.

Let’s start with what this material brings to the table—and where it can fall short.

1. What PA66 GF30 Really Means—and Why It’s Everywhere

A Closer Look at the Code

PA66 GF30 isn’t just a string of letters and numbers—it’s a formula. PA66 stands for polyamide 66, a type of nylon. The GF30 part tells you the plastic has been reinforced with 30% glass fiber by weight. This combination creates a material that’s stronger, tougher, and more heat-resistant than standard plastic.

You’ll mostly find this stamped on the radiator’s end tanks, which are the plastic parts on either side of the aluminum core. Radiators with PA66 GF30 tanks are common in modern cars, SUVs, and trucks because they strike a good balance between performance and cost.

What Makes It Better Than Basic Plastic or Metal?

Compared to unfilled nylon or older aluminum tanks, PA66 GF30 steps things up:

• Strength and stiffness: The glass fibers act like tiny reinforcing rods, helping the tank hold its shape under pressure.

• Heat resistance: Some grades can tolerate temperatures as high as 250°C without losing integrity.

• Chemical stability: It holds up against coolant, oils, and road grime.

• Lightweight: It’s much lighter than brass or copper, which helps with fuel efficiency.

Radiators made with this material are molded into precise shapes, allowing manufacturers to design compact, efficient cooling systems without dealing with metal fabrication.

Where It Can Still Fall Short

PA66 GF30 isn’t indestructible. It can still run into trouble in a few situations:

• Creep under high heat: If the radiator isn’t made with heat-stabilized PA66 GF30, it can slowly deform.

• UV damage: Extended sun exposure (especially without a grille or debris shield) can cause surface cracking over time.

• Limited recyclability: Once mixed with glass fiber, the plastic can’t be recycled like pure polymers.

So while this material is tough and reliable, it’s not magic. It still needs to be engineered and installed right—especially when it comes to fitment.

2. Material Isn’t Everything—Fitment Is What Makes or Breaks It

What Good Is a Tough Radiator If It Doesn’t Fit?

Just because a radiator uses PA66 GF30 doesn’t mean it’s a drop-in replacement for your vehicle. Plenty of buyers get caught off guard, assuming the material match is enough. But radiators are like tailored suits—if even one measurement is off, nothing sits right.

Here’s what needs to line up:

• Core dimensions: Height, width, and thickness must match the original.

• Inlet and outlet size and position: If your hoses don’t line up, you’ve got a problem.

• Mounting tabs: They need to bolt up exactly.

• Cooler connections: Many radiators also handle automatic transmission fluid or engine oil cooling—those ports need to be in the right place.

• Flow direction: Crossflow vs. downflow matters for how your cooling system works.

Miss on any of those, and you’re either forcing it to fit—or sending it back.

OEM Part Numbers: The Compatibility Gold Standard

The most reliable way to ensure proper fit? Use your OEM part number. This code is tied to your exact vehicle—year, make, model, trim, engine, and transmission type. If the part you’re buying doesn’t match that number, you’re gambling on fitment.

It doesn’t matter if it “looks close” or says “fits most models.” If the part number doesn’t match, you could end up with:

• Fan shrouds that won’t mount.

• Hose clamps that don’t seal.

• Leaks from poor port alignment.

• Warranty denials from shops or insurers.

Why “Close Enough” Isn’t Good Enough

Some sellers bank on the fact that PA66 GF30 sounds like a universal spec. But that’s not how cooling systems work. A radiator that’s off by just a few millimeters might technically bolt in but perform poorly—or worse, damage your engine.

Example? A user swapped a PA66 GF30 radiator into a Toyota Tacoma, thinking it would fit based on core dimensions. But the inlet was ¾” too high, and the fan shroud couldn’t be mounted. The result? Overheating and a $1,200 repair bill.

3. Which Vehicles Use PA66 GF30 Radiators? A Look at Real-World Listings

Data Pulled from Retailers, Catalogs, and Forums

We dug through hundreds of listings, spec sheets, and forum posts to compile vehicles where PA66 GF30 is either clearly stamped on the radiator tanks or mentioned in the product description. It’s worth repeating: always verify the OEM part number, but this snapshot gives you a solid idea of where PA66 GF30 shows up.

Below is a quick-view version of the top listings:

This list is just the tip of the iceberg. There are hundreds more makes and models with PA66 GF30 tanks, especially in mid-2000s to present-day vehicles.

Heads-up: Even two trims of the same model year might use different radiator designs depending on engine size, cooling package, or transmission type.

Where the Data Comes From—and Why It Matters

Sources like NAPA and Denso often list “Tank Material: Plastic—PA66-GF30” right in their product descriptions. Amazon and eBay sellers might include that too—but be cautious. Many listings copy info between sellers, and accuracy varies.

Automotive forums also provide gems—like users physically inspecting BEHR radiators or sharing part numbers with confirmed fitment. Just don’t skip the verification step.

4. How Reliable Are These Fitment Claims? Let’s Break It Down

Not All Sources Are Created Equal

Some listings feel rock-solid—especially when they come from manufacturers like Denso, Nissens, or NAPA, who often include detailed specs. When you see PA66-GF30 clearly labeled in the product description alongside confirmed make/model compatibility, that’s a strong sign.

But then there’s the other side: Alibaba mass listings, vague eBay descriptions, and generic Amazon titles like “Fits Multiple Vehicles.” These can be hit-or-miss. Some sellers recycle the same boilerplate text across multiple listings—so just because it says PA66-GF30 doesn’t mean it’s actually molded into the tank.

What Forums Get Right—and What They Don’t

Forum users often offer brutally honest reviews—good and bad. They’ll tell you if a radiator didn’t quite fit, if the hose connectors were off by a few millimeters, or if the tank cracked after a year. You’ll also find specific part numbers and brands being discussed—BEHR, Spectra, Denso, and DWVO pop up often with PA66-GF30 tanks.

Still, forums aren’t fact-checked. One person might swear a part fit their 2005 Tacoma, while another warns the same one didn’t clear the fan shroud on theirs. Take forum info as helpful context, not gospel.

Why You Should Always Double-Check—Even With “Exact Fit” Listings

It’s tempting to trust online compatibility tools. Just enter your car’s make, model, and year, and boom—it shows a match. But real-world reports show this can backfire:

• Different trims in the same model year might use different radiators.

• Engine or transmission swaps throw compatibility off completely.

• Some sellers list a part as “universal” when it’s anything but.

That’s why OEM part number and core specs matter more than buzzwords like PA66-GF30.

5. DIY Compatibility Check – A 5‑Step Process That Actually Works

Find the OEM Part Number—It’s Your Golden Ticket

Before anything else, check the OEM part number on your old radiator or pull it using your VIN through an online EPC (Electronic Parts Catalog). This is the only way to cut through all the noise. Every vehicle has its own factory-assigned radiator spec, and that part number leads you straight to what fits.

If the sticker is gone or unreadable, run your VIN through dealership sites or OEM catalogs—many will show exploded diagrams and exact part numbers by trim and engine type.

Don’t Skip Core Dimensions and Port Placement

Even if a radiator looks right, core size and port layout can trip you up. Measure the height, width, and depth of the core—not the whole radiator—and compare port positions (inlet, outlet, cooler lines) to your original. If the fittings are off by even a centimeter, it could spell trouble.

Use calipers or a flexible measuring tape. Ports should not only be in the same place, but they should match in inner diameter—no stretching hoses or cramming clamps.

Make Sure the Oil Cooler Setup Matches (If You Have One)

If your vehicle has an automatic transmission or engine oil cooler, the radiator often includes built-in heat exchangers. You’ll want to verify:

• Are the cooler ports present on the replacement?

• Are the threads or quick-connect styles compatible?

• Is the core deep enough to include the cooler without sacrificing flow?

Leave this unchecked, and you’re either losing performance—or leaving critical systems uncooled.

Material Spec Helps—But Don’t Let It Fool You

If you’re targeting a PA66-GF30 radiator, that’s a great start. It tells you the tank is made from a tough, glass-reinforced nylon. But it’s not the whole picture. A PA66-GF30 label doesn’t confirm the cooler size, port threads, or bracket layout.

Think of it like checking a shoe brand—you still need the right size and shape for your foot.

Confirm Fitment with a Trusted Supplier or Mechanic

Once you’ve compared specs and part numbers, loop in a second set of eyes. Call a dealership parts desk or a seasoned mechanic and ask them to double-check your match. Or better yet, order from a supplier that guarantees fitment based on your VIN—some will even cover return shipping if it’s wrong.

6. Installing and Caring for PA66-GF30 Radiators—What You Need to Watch

Don’t Over-Torque the Plastic Necks

Unlike metal, PA66-GF30 tanks don’t like brute force. The hose necks—especially where clamps bite down—can crack if you go too hard with the wrench. Most manufacturers recommend staying within 18–25 in-lbs of torque on hose clamps. Use a torque screwdriver if you’ve got one, or go hand-tight plus a quarter turn.

If you hear a snap during install? Stop. Inspect for micro-fractures before filling with coolant.

Match the Coolant to the Plastic

Coolant chemistry matters. PA66-GF30 does not get along well with phosphate-heavy or silicate-rich coolants over the long haul. These can accelerate chemical breakdown or cause deposits to form in plastic weld seams.

Stick with what your OEM recommends—and if you’re switching types (like from green to HOAT or OAT), flush thoroughly first. Don’t mix and match.

Give It Some UV Protection If Exposed

If your radiator is mounted close to the grille or visible through a large mesh bumper, prolonged sunlight exposure can fade and weaken the PA66-GF30 surface over time. It’s rare, but not unheard of in trucks and SUVs.

Use a radiator shield, or even a UV-resistant spray coating if you’re frequently parked outdoors. Some newer PA66-GF30 tanks are UV-stabilized, but not all aftermarket models are.

Inspect the End Tanks at 100K Intervals

Cracks around the seam where the plastic tank meets the aluminum core are the first signs of age-related failure. With PA66-GF30, these usually show up after 90,000 to 120,000 miles, depending on heat cycles.

When you’re doing regular maintenance, shine a light down the front of the radiator and look for:

• Discoloration or dried coolant at the seam

• Hairline cracks, especially near the necks or bottom tank corners

• Bulging of the plastic under pressure

Catching this early can prevent catastrophic coolant loss down the road.

Wrapping It Up—What Really Matters When Choosing a PA66-GF30 Radiator

If you’re replacing a radiator and see “PA66-GF30” stamped on the tank, don’t assume it’s a guaranteed match. That marking tells you it’s made from a tough, glass-reinforced nylon—good news for strength, heat resistance, and long-term durability. But it’s just one piece of the puzzle.

To get the right fit, you’ll need more than the material tag. Matching the OEM part number is your best bet, backed up by detailed checks on dimensions, port locations, mounting points, and any integrated coolers. Online retailers and forums can help steer you, but always double-check with a parts catalog or a trusted technician before clicking “buy.”

In summary, PA66-GF30 is a smart material choice, but proper installation begins with thorough verification. That’s what keeps your engine cool, your coolant sealed, and your ride running strong.

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Rami Hasan is the founder of CherishYourCar.com, where he combines his web publishing experience with a passion for the automotive world. He’s committed to creating clear, practical guides that help drivers take better care of their vehicles and get more out of every mile.